Acorn

Issue date: 10/3/08 Section: Life & Arts

Media Credit: nowpublic.com A San Loco entrance displays its Mexican theme with electric style.

San Loco has everything a good Mexican joint should-icy margaritas, tasty tacos, oil paintings of Mexican restaurants and booths embroidered with scenes of dogs playing cards. Although the restaurant has four locations in New York City, the one on North 4th Street in Brooklyn is definitely the best. This particular San Loco has the luxury of space that can only be obtained by leaving Manhattan.

The bright colors and blazing sign are a warm welcome to this locally-loved, self-serve Mexican restaurant. The tabletops are collaged with Spanish movie posters while local art covers the walls. There is a full bar equipped with spunky bartenders. This locale also features a pool table, which is always a plus. San Loco is open until 4 a.m. on Friday and Saturday, making it a great place to get a cheap bite after a few drinks nearby.

When it comes to the food, there are only two words to describe its glory-the Queso Loco. I am so in love with this taco that my friends have begun to worry about me. I will find any excuse to get a Queso Loco. As long as I am within a 10-mile radius of any San Loco, I will have to go to get my fix. Queso Locos are a hard shell taco wrapped in a soft shell taco with a layer of cheese in between. Queso Locos may seem like a rudimentary dish, but trust me-they are one of the most delicious things that I've ever tasted. I attribute their basic yet scrumptious style to San Loco's commitment to freshness. Although many restaurants claim that their stuff is made with only the freshest ingredients, San Loco actually means it. With crisp lettuce, juicy tomatoes, all-white chicken breast, gooey cheese and spicy hot sauce, Queso Locos are crafted to wake up your taste buds.

Bean Queso Locos are a crunchy meatless option for vegetarians. Vegans are even given their own version with the Guaco Loco. This double-wrapped taco has guacamole separating the two shells instead of cheese.

Locos aren't the only good eats at San Loco. The restaurant has many mouthwatering Mexican dishes. The nachos are a messy mix-mosh that will leave your hands sticky and your stomach happy. The full loco bar offers a large selection of Spanish beer and cocktails, such as a frosty pina colada garnished with a cherry.

Although going to the Brooklyn San Loco is recommended, it is not required. There are three other locations in New York, including the original restaurant on 2nd Avenue near St. Marks Place, which has been dishing out the goods since 1987.

Good restaurants are always the neighborhood favorite and San Loco is no exception. The crowd consists mainly of locals looking to get a good cheap bite. There's no table service, so you don't have to worry about a tip. Order your Queso Loco at the counter, pick an appealing spot and sit back in anticipation. Even the locals will tell you, San Loco is the best choice when you need a spicy stomach satisfier.

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